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Thursday, 11 April 2013

Saturday 6th April 2013 Courcy to Berry-au-Bac. 12.2 kms 9 locks


 A few lock houses
Lock 8 Noue-Gouzaine.
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne
3.0°C Grey clouds and a very cold N wind. Sun out briefly during the morning. We set off at 10.20 am, later than normal as we hadn’t got far to go. Turned the pole to start the chain of four working – lock 9 Courcy started working, filled, then the lights turned to double red, annoyingly “en panne”! Moved over to the towpath side and I dropped our centre rope around a bollard while Mike went to call the VNF on the lock intercom. The lady at Berry control centre said she would send someone, so Mike came back and gave the two tyres we’d used as fenders all winter a good scrub to remove the mud and dead mussels. Two men in large hats came walking past and stopped for a chat. 
Lock 8 Noue-Gouzaine. Eroded lock walls
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne
They asked all the usual questions, where had we come from and where were we going, how long/wide was the boat, what was it made from, how heavy, etc,etc, and we had quite a natter. When I said we’d stayed at Condé one said he lived at Marreuil-sur-Ay (a neighbouring village on the canal Latéral a la Marne) and asked if we’d stayed there. No, as we have friends in Condé, but Marreuil is a lovely town. A lady on a bike stopped to join in. Meanwhile our VNF man in van had arrived, reset the lock for us and then gone away again. We dropped down lock 9. It was 10.55 am when we left the lock. A troupe of nine young girls on ponies came down the track to the left of the lock, crossed the tail end bridge and carried on down the path on the non-towpath side. 800m down to lock 8 Noue Gouzaine, which filled OK and we went down with any problems. The wind was very cold. Another nice house with a good roof but windows all bricked up stood empty alongside the lock. The lock chamber of lock 8 was in dire need of repairs to the eroded concrete lock walls where areas of rebar were showing. The ponies went back up the track on the right bank as we went down the 1.1km pound to lock 7 Fontaines. 
Lock 8 Noue-Gouzaine. Eroded lock walls
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne
The lock had twin lock houses. One for the keeper was empty and the lived-in one with Loivre over the door also had a sign saying “Conducteur des Voies Navigables”. Not any more, no doubt, probably not even a VNF employee living there. 700m to lock 6, Loivre. The house alongside the lock was lived in. Mike got off to take a photo of the hydraulics in a Perspex box on the lockside (usually the hydraulic pack is in the lock cabin). The towpath was busy with youths on roller blades. In the layby below the lock there was a moored converted péniche with a new paint job but no name and a Dutch barge called Louna. On the 3.5 kms pound to lock 5 Gaudart I made a cuppa. 
Lock 7 Fontaines
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne
The lock house at 5 was lived in with a VNF van parked by the lock cabin. The blue pole was on the left at the uphill end of the chamber so Mike lifted it. 5 and 4 were linked. As we left 5 an empty péniche called Mexicali from Janville came past heading uphill. We ran down the 1.2 kms pound to lock 4 Alger. VNF tug Picardie was moored above lock 4. The lock chamber had new concrete top edges and bottom end walls plus new gates. Again Mike lifted the rod as it was on his side. On the 2.35 kms pound to lock 3 Sapigneul we passed the concrete works of Capremib, where the yard was full of sections for tunnel lining. The wind was blowing straight up the long straight to lock 3 and was bitterly cold. 
Lock 7 Fontaines - twin lock house
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne
There was no house at the lock and, again, the lock walls were in need of repair. Dropped down lock 3 and on to the 1.1kms to lock 2 Moulin de Sapigneul. The old lock house at 2 was now empty, the wooden front door had holes in it. Mike lifted the pole and we were deafened by the bell on the lock cabin, which rang while the gates shut (and opened). 1.15kms to lock 1 Berry. 
Lock 6 Loivre. Hydraulics in box on lockside.
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne
Three péniches were at the silo above the last lock. Two Dutch boats were moored well back from the silo, Vincita and Sonnepaerd, both from Terneuzen; they were waiting to load. The first one had its hydraulic arm in the air and its car on the towpath, a large playpen full of toys was on top of the hold covers. Dad was walking his toddler along the towpath so we all waved. At the silo, a French empty called Paloclau from Compiegne was under the loading chute waiting to be loaded. The chatty lady keeper from Berry Marne was on the lockside at Berry 1 while we locked down and we talked as the lock emptied. Moored in the “large” (a wide layby), backing without the prop turning into the corner ‘til we found the extent of the mud then moved forward half a boat length before we tied up, knocking stakes in at 2.15 pm. Retired into the cabin for a very late, but hot, lunch as we were frozen. We planned to stay a couple of days at Berry to do some more jobs on the boat and some shopping in Reims, before setting off on to the canal des Ardennes. 
Lock 6 Loivre
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne

Lock 2 Moulin de Sapigneul
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne

Friday 5th April 2013 Wez to Courcy. 27.6kms 7 locks


New concrete and safety fences -
even fences round the lock house!
lock 14 l'Esperance

1.4°C Cold with grey clouds. Set off at ten. An empty péniche called Franca from Wasserbillig (on the Moselle) came up lock 16 Wez and then we went down. There were two VNF men in a van on the lockside with a ladder, looks like they’re doing lock house maintenance. Slowly down the 1.15 km pound to lock 15 Beaumont as there was a cruiser coming up in the lock. Mike had a look through his binoculars to find them doing likewise! They waved. The crew of the cruiser called Sheratan were all outside and well-muffled up against the cold. A fisherman was sitting on the towpath side, right opposite the layby above the lock using a long roach pole. We went to our left to go round it but he hauled it in. Then lock 15 refused to work. Mike went to the top end and put his hand over the
Frences, notices, safety life ring,
lock 14 l'Esperance
sensor, still nothing happening. The VNF man in a van from Wez went past (he’d been taking photos of the twin lock house roofs) so Mike waved to him and said the lock wouldn’t work – he shouted to someone in the VNF yard who came to sort it out. He did the same as Mike, hand over the sensor, he walked up to it and lifted it and it worked! Then he said you have to leave it one minute after entering the lock before lifting the rod! Yeah, OK! It worked. I made a cuppa to warm us up as we set off on the 2.8 kms pound to lock 14 L’Esperance. That worked OK. Mike took pictures of yet more new “health & safety” fences (to keep the public from falling in) now around lock 14, plus new concrete and even a security fence around the lock house. 
Port de Plaisance, Reims. The first white boat is in the port,
the rest are houseboats moored beyond the port
2.2 kms to lock 13 Sillery. As we set off there were swallows flying up and down the canal catching insects in the silent sugar works of Bhegin Say. The VNF man in a van went past heading back uphill in a cloud of dust. The Port at Sillery above the lock looked almost empty. Hotel boat Princess was being repainted ready for the new season and on the pontoons there were just three large cruisers and narrowboat Sulaskar, plus a bateau-ecole day boat. Another fisherman was fishing opposite the basin just above the lock. As there was a strong side wind I dropped a rope around a bollard to keep the boat against the lock wall just while Mike lifted the blue pole. I made sandwiches for lunch as we set off along the 7.55 kms pound into Reims.
Centre de Congres, Reims.
Note yellow bendy-bus.
Mike paused by the new VNF offices to see if they had a replacement for our very tattered flag. It was 1 pm and no one was there. As we set off again a guy on a bike stopped to chat to Mike in English. He strongly advised us not to stop in the Port-de-Plaisance due to thefts, but we weren’t going to stop there anyway as we’ve seen the city many, many times before. Mike twisted the pole to start the sequence for the flight of three but it didn’t work so he had to reverse and do it again, then it worked. Into lock 12 Huon, surrounded by vandal-proof fences as were the other two in the city. Down the lock and we spotted the first new duckling of the year and also noticed that the badly damaged wall on the right hand side had been repaired. 
Flour mills, Reims
For years there had been getting less and less concrete as the commercials entering the lock were bashed against the wall by the force of the weir on the left below the lock shoving their bows to the left. The weir was still as ferocious as ever but being narrow we could avoid hitting the wall. The VNF keeper came up the towpath on his moped as we started down the 650m pound to lock 11, while road traffic along the Quai de Pré aux Moines on the right hand bank was very busy. The lock had filled for us, we went in, I lifted the blue rod and we dropped down lock 11 Château d’Eau. Still no one living in the nice but heavily fortified house alongside the lock. Out on to the 750m pound to lock 10 Fléchambault, our last lock of the day. The VNF man on a moped flew back down the towpath to the bottom lock. 
Warehouses, Reims
When we got there the lock was ready but there was no sign of the VNF man except for his crash helmet on the desk in the lock cabin. It was 2.10 pm as we left the lock. Two girls launched a rowing skiff from the rowing club as we went past heading into the city centre. Past the row of permanently moored houseboats, retired péniches and a restaurant boat, then past the Port where one brave soul had left a cruiser called Romi moored at the uphill end of the moorings, albeit behind a high fence with a locked gate.  The rowers caught us up as we left the city but didn’t come past; they paused for a while then returned. The basin called Port Colbert was empty, no boats, and the mooring at the long quay by the PUM steel works was also empty – where have all the working boats gone?
Old dock before Port Colbert, Reims
Just one empty boat (St Joseph, from Paris) was moored before the gates. It’s clean paintwork down to waterline indicated that it hadn’t been anywhere in quite a while. Noted that the towpath on the left hand bank had been tarmaced for a cycle piste and was being well-used by cyclists, walkers and youth with roller blades. We passed a yacht from Ostende heading towards the city as we ran past the empty quay. Around the corner the canal went through a long tree lined cutting where we were sheltered from the wind and it felt quite pleasant. A Dutch steel cruiser called Zinnin went past at the end of the cutting. Looks like the P-d-P will have two customers tonight! We tied up at 4.35 pm next to an old factory above the lock at Courcy. Glad to tie up and get warm again.
Port Colbert, Reims.
Commercial loading and unloading quays

Thursday 4th April 2013 Condé-sur-Marne – Wez. 18.1kms 8 locks


Freezing overnight then sunny spells but with a biting cold NE wind. Mike took the car up to Viviane’s and parked by her house. On the way back he picked up a loaf from the boulangerie. All ready to go and we set off at 10.30 am, twisted the hanging pole which activated the flight of eight locks up to the tunnel. 
Leaving our pontoon mooring at Conde-sur-Marne
Our Capitain (and good friend) Gérard came up to the lock No 24 Condé to say au’voir and said to ring him when we get to Berry and he would come and collect Mike to retrieve the car. Off along the long, wind swept pound (1.75kms) to lock 23 Coupé. The VNF man (or woman) in a van raced off up the towpath heading uphill. Two ladies were walking the towpath, we caught up with them just before lock 23 and had a brief chat. Lock ready with gates open, I lifted the pole and the lock filled. Mike took more photos of the old lock house, which hadn’t been lived in for donkey’s years and was slowly decaying.
Old lock house lk 23 Coupe
1.35kms to lock 22 Isse on the edge of the village of the same name. There was still a phone box on the lockside next to the modern lock cabin and a well looked after lock house on the other side of the towpath. The pounds get shorter and shorter as we progress up the flight. 700m to lock 21 Fosse Rodé. The lock emptied as we got closer. Another lived-in lock house but no one around as we locked through. 650m to lock 20 St Martin, there were no signs of ever having had a lock house alongside the chamber. Mike hopped off with the camera as the lock was almost full to take photos of a rusting relic in the corner of the field below the lock.
Ancient Fordson tractor
It was an ancient Fordson tractor with caterpillar half-tracks instead of rear wheels. It was midday when we left the top of lock 20. 750m to lock 19 Longues Raies. Again no lock house and very quiet except for the birdsong. 500m to lock 18 Champ-bon-Garçon. It took ages for the bottom gates to open, so long that we thought it would go “en panne” (out of order then the VNF man in a van would arrive and reset it). No house and very quiet. I made lunch as we rose in lock 18 and headed off on the 500m to the top lock 17 Vaudemange. We left the top lock at 12.40 pm passing the basin which now housed three cruisers, a converted retired péniche and two Dutch barges. The guy off the end DB came out of his wheelhouse to wave as we went past. Into the cutting leading to Billy-le-Grand. Wild hellebores were blooming on the otherwise bare (apart from trees) steep sloping banks. In another month’s time the towpath edges will be covered in wild strawberry plants – full of small intensely-flavoured fruits called fraises-des-bois. As we got closer to the tunnel entrance we could see the red light was on. Mike looked through his binoculars and said there was no one in the tunnel as he could see the far end.
Southern portal of Billy-le-Grand and keeper's cabin
No signs of the tunnel keeper and the light remained red so Mike went to find Madame who lives in the house atop the tunnel. He found a bloke (must be a relief keeper now the VNF staff all work less hours per week) in the cabin over the entrance, hunkered down by the door. He said he hadn’t seen us. Mike had called him on the calling channel 10 and got no answer. No, he said, it’s channel 18. Made a note of that on our guide book. I said we should have hooted! As we went in the fluorescent lights came on and so did the ventilator fans in the roof. Really noisy and adding to the very cold wind which was already blowing through the tunnel. Once clear of the tunnel the canal changes character and runs straight for several kilometres at a time between chalky fields with distant hazy views of La Montagne, tree-covered on this side with no sight of the famous vineyards.
Maintenance trolley on rails that were used for towpath traction mules
As we were about to tie up on the summit above the first lock down (Wez) a loaded boat (Abyss from Antoing in Belgium) came out of the lock so we had to stooge around until it passed by as we wanted to moor on the left hand bank at the end of the bollards. The wind was blowing us on to the bank so the boat was held against the bank while we attached ropes to the last bollard and Mike knocked some pins in. It was 3 pm and we were shattered after the first day of moving after being moored at Condé for nineteen months. 

Wednesday, 3 April 2013

Getting ready to leave Conde-sur-Marne

End of pontoon mooring, perfect for us.
After 19 months in the port we're finally ready to leave. The diesel tank is full, water tank likewise, a new vignette paid for (185 euros for a month - ouch! VNF put all their prices up this year by doing a major restructuring exercise) and all our insurance is up to date. The moped is secured on the roof after a long rest in Viviane's barn. We've got a month to reach the French border before our vignette expires, so we'll be taking a fairly leisurely trip up and over the hill to Berry-au-Bac, then the beautiful canal des Ardennes (a favourite route) to join the river Meuse  at Pont-a-Bar and then it's downhill all the way through Belgium and into the Netherlands, meeting up with Wandering Snail's Anne and Olly on the way.  Let's hope the weather improves, it's been cold and windy the past week and spring seems a long time coming this year.